
12th story: From Dakar to
Bobo Dialasso (23.03.05 -
10.04.05)On March
23rd we returned back to Dakar
carrying a lot of spare parts for
the bikes as well as a few new
gear parts . We spent the first
days getting our bikes in shape
again.We had to replace a few
worn out parts and we finally had
to air our hydraulic brakes as
well. Luckily this was much
easier than expected. Afterwards
Hendrik had to stay in bed for a
few days because he got a cold
the change of temperature
and climate of the last days had
been too much.
We finally hit
the road on March 29th. We had
already realised that the
temperature was much warmer than
before our departure to Germany.
Biking we realised how hot it
really was: Franzi nearly fell
off her bike at noon the first
day with a heat stroke, we had
45°C + in the shade! But worst
of all was the front wind, it was
more like a hot hair blower. This
was definetely the hamatan
blowing from the Sahara. We spent
the next four hours sweating
under a tree. At 4 pm it got
cooler so that we could start
biking again. We made it to
Mbour, the next biggest town,
where we stayed at the Coco Beach
Hotel. Since they had a nice pool
we decided to stay an extra day.
The following day we set off
rather early further inland. This
day it seemed even hotter, so
that we had to stop at 11 am
after 40km on the road. We spent
the next six hours in the shade
of a little church. Once in a
while Hendrik went to the next
store to get cool
drinks. At 5pm the heat was
reasonable to start again. In the
evening we wanted to stay at a
church but they didnīt have
space. Luckily we managed to find
a quiet place outside a village
for our tent. This was the first
night for our new Merlin 33 tent
from The Northface, since it was
so hot we only used the tent
without the fly.
The same
evening we realised that it was
simly too hot to continue
cycling. We also didnīt want to
spent half of the day sitting
under a tree doing nothing. We
were also very much afraid that
Hendrikīs insulin might get too
hot even in the thermos bottles.
Therefore we decided to speed
things up a little bit in order
to avoid the extreme heat. We
took a taxi to Tambacounda since
we knew that the train from Dakar
to Bamako stops there. We were
right, the train was supposed to
go the next day but nobody could
tell us at what time.
Theoretically the train departs
at 11pm, but practically it is
more like 1 or 2 am. They put our
names on the waiting list. In the
evening they told us that the
train wonīt depart before 3am.
They also told us that the train
will take nine to eleven hours to
cover the 180km to the border
since the tracks were so bad.
Since we didnīt feel like
spending the night at the train
station and gettimg on a train
with two bikes and all the
luggage in the middle of the
night, we decided to spent the
night at the hotel. We took a
taxi the following day towards
the border, which took only two
and a half hours.
There was no
problem at the immigration
leaving Senegal. We had already
organised our visa for Mali in
Mauretania. Nevertheless the
immigration officers wanted 2000
CFA (about 2,50 ), but
since they were unable to change
Franziskaīs 10000 CFA bill, we
didnīt have to pay anything. It
was only 100km from the border to
the next big town in Mali, Kayes.
Since there was more demand for
transportation than offers, we
had to buy nine tickets in order
to have enough space for our
bikes and all the luggage. This
trip was rather adventurous since
most of the way was rather bad
sandy piste and the car was
beyond german safety standards...
We reached Kayes at 3pm. We
didnīt pass the train from Dakar
on our way!
We went to the
train station in Kayes since we
knew that there were additional
trains from Kayes to Bamako. We
were lucky, there was a train the
same day at 8.15 pm. All tickets
were sold out of cource, but for
an extra 25% of the regular
ticket fare we could buy two
tickets for second class at the
black market. Our bikes and most
of the luggage, sewn into a
gigantic empty rice bag, had to
go separately in the luggage
waggon. Hendrik was at least able
to manage to put our bikes into
the luagge waggon himself.
Afterwards we could take a shower
for free in the hotel accros from
the train station. We were
allowed to board the train at
6.30pm when it was still light
outside which was good because
there was no light in the train.
The train was an old French one,
at least 45 years old, which had
not been cleaned ever since. We
were lucky and managed to change
to the first class sleeping car.
This was real luck because only
half an hour after the scheduled
departure they noticed that there
was no locomotive for our train!
The locomotive finally arrived at
11pm, but it took another three
hours before we finally set off.
At 6 am we had not made much
progress. Soon we came to realise
that we wonīt make it in 10
hours. Indeed it took us 25 hours
to cover the 500km! This was
quite a trip, extremely hot, we
went up and down, left and right
all the time because the tracks
were so worn out, nevertheles
this was a real adventure: At
each stop hundreds for
flying vendors came
selling everything you can
imagine. The scenery was rather
boring, it got a little bit
greener after crossing the Niger
and towards Bamako, though.
Our bikes and the luggage had
survived quite well and we were
more than happy to sleep in a
real bed again when we arrived in
Bamako on April 4th.
Against our own
expectations we liked Bamako. The
city seems to be one whole
market.
One time we had a rather bad
encounter with the police,
though. We were on our way to our
hotel, when a horde of police men
tried to chase some illegal
street vendors away. All of a
sudden the boss of them thought
that Hendrik had filmed this with
his photocamera and especially
him beating up people. Luckily
Hendrik had not taken any
pictures, but we couldnīt
convince the police men at all.
They wanted the film and
couldnīt understand that there
was none because it was a digital
camera. They stopped us from
moving on with their riot sticks
and wanted that we wait for their
big boss. We just continued on,
they followed us, finally is was
pretty clear that the boss wonīt
come and they allowed us to go.
What a way to treat tourists!
We managed to
get our visas for Burkina Faso as
well as for Ghana in Bamako. We
took the bus to Sikasso on April
9th and continued by bus to Bobo
Dialasso in Burkina Faso on April
10th. Here we were told that it
is normally rather hot at this
time of the year but that it was
indeed extremely hot this year!
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