
13th story: From Bobo
Dialasso to Accra (11.04.05 -
21.04.05)Despite the
heat, we started again on bikes
from Bobo Dialasso towards the
Ghanian border on April 12th. The
first 20km there was a gentle
decend on the mainroad towards
the capital Ouagadougou, then we
had to turn and it was all piste.
Away from the main road we off
course drew even more attention
with our recumbent bikes. As soon
as we stopped a whole crowd of
people gathered around us. The
people in Burkina Faso were
extremely curious, but very
friendly. Already people in
Senegal and Mali had been poor,
but here the poverty was really
extreme, quite a few of the kids
were running around naked with
bloated bellies. But nevertheless
people were friendly.
The heat was outrageous that day,
we were not only sweating, but
the sweat was dripping from our
fingertips. The drinkig water
turned into an undrinkable
something within minutes....
At midnight the
temperature went down to only
35°C- impossible to even think
of sleeping and half of the night
we turned around on our matresses
sweating. The next day we set off
at sunrise being rather tired. At
10 am it was already too hot for
us to continue cycling. We were
also in constant fear about the
insulin. Most of the villages we
drove through had no electricity
and we were unable to buy the
much needed ice to cool the
insulin. Hendrik had a special
system to cool his insulin in
thermos bottles but in this heat
he needed ice to prevent the
water from boiling. Another
problem was food, in these small
villages the only thing we could
buy were mangos- very small and
not yet ripe ones. The drinking
water from the local dwells seemd
like a bacterial-virological
bomb, since the life stock was
getting watered right next to it.
Though we filtered the water of
course, we were unsure about it.
We were lucky and managed to
organize a transpot towards the
border (Hamile/Ghana).
Ghana welcomed us with a big
Welcome to Ghana
signpost and rather relaxed and
friendly immigration officers.
Though Ghana is much wealthier
than Burkina Faso there was only
a hotel with bucket showers and
toiletes squat styles without
light.
Gradually the
heat showed severe consequences
for Hendrikīs health, his
circulation went crazy, he had
bad stomach pains, nausea and
diarrhoea. Therefore we decided
to continue by bus. First we went
to Kumasi, the second biggest
town in Ghana and the former
capital of the Ashanti, where we
were able to get decent food
again. By now both of us felt too
weak to cycle. 200km before
Kumasi we finally left the Sahel
area and went into the tropics,
which was rather frustrating
because everywhere you see only
left overs of the once rich
rainforest. Nearly all of the
rainforest has been cut.
When we reached
Cape Coast the former capital of
the British, Hendrik was so weak
that he had to stay in bed for 24
hours. First nausea, then
diarrhoea and finally fever (it
was difficult to measure the body
temperature when it was so hot
outside). Malaria? The next day
we went to hospital where they
made a malaria and typhus test,
which was luckily negative but
they couldnīt help any further.
By now it was
hot and humid, cycling was
unthinkable, therefore we took a
taxi (like nearly all (used) cars
this was a German one still with
the country sticker of Germany on
it) to get to Accra, the capital
of Ghana. Hendrik was still not
doing well, just getting the
bikes into the taxi was too
exhausting for him.
The same day we
met Inge and Jeroen, the two
Dutch cyclists we had met in Tan
Tan / Marocco, in downtown Accra.
We knew they would be in Accra
the same time and there was a big
hello. The two had cycled all the
way and were pretty worn out and
had lost quite some weight. They
hadnīt enjoyed this very much ,
especially since they got sick as
well. They had already made a
decision to leave West Africa and
to fly to Uganda instead.
We also had to make a decision
since we didnīt want to risk
Hendrikīs health any further.
First we had the idea to fly to
South Africa in order to finish
the trip in a much milder
(winter-) temperature.
Unfortunately Hendrikīs health
situation got even worse, so that
we decided to fly straight back
home on April 20th.
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