
8th story: From Tan Tan
to the Mauritanian Border
(19.01.05 - 08.02.05)Finally
we are on the road again!
When we arrived in Tan Tan on
January 1st we were totally
depressed due to the broken bike
frame. We called the bike company
on January 1st and were told that
it would take two to four days
for the parcel to arrive. It
turned out to be a total
nightmare: Though the parcel did
arrive in Casablanca within two
days it took nearly another two
weeks until it was delivered to
us in Tan Tan! False information,
false promises, you name it. When
the parcel had finally cleared
customs after a week TNT Morocco
simply forwarded it by regular
post service
We spent the
time waiting talking to other
tourists, most of them on their
way south in camper vans. On
January 4th and 5th the escort of
the rally
Barcelona-Dakar
passed through. Most of them
stopped right in front of our
hotel in order to get some decent
food, some even rented a room
just to take a shower.
Luckily it was only 25km to the
beach and a few times we went
there by one of these very old
and rusty Mercedes Benz taxis,
which fit in 7 people in total.
On January 15th we got company by
a Dutch couple also on bikes.
Inge and Jerome are also on their
way to South Africa. The two
decided to take a rest day and
ended up staying also a few days
since there was a pretty heavy
sandstorm the next two days. We
had a really good time exchanging
experiences and eating, we took
turns cooking for each other. The
two were also a real moral help
in times of waiting. We hope to
meet somewhere on the road again.
The parcel with
the new bike frame arrived on
January 18th and we were on the
road again on January 19th! After
all this time the first day on
the bikes was tough because the
muscles were sore
The
weather was still doing fine, not
too warm during the day but
pretty cold at night. Actually we
had the feeling it got colder the
further south we went. But the
wind came from the back, so that
after a few days we got into
shape again and managed to cover
quite some distances. We also had
to because water and food
supplies were limited. We were
lucky and got some information
from two other cyclists who had
just finished this stretch a few
weeks before us. The only
available map has a scale of 1:4
million and is really no help at
all. We had to carry up to 10
litres of water and quite some
food, the longest distance
between two supply stations,
usually a gas station with a
small café, was about 180km,
through the dessert though. Since
there are only a few people
living there we got a welcomed
break from kids running towards
us demanding: Donnez moi un
stylo Besides pens and
sweets they also demand money, it
is really annoying! If you
dont give anything they
might throw stones at you, which
happened twelve times to us!
So we really
enjoyed being in the dessert with
its really fascinating scenery.
We had great spots for camping
with great sun downs. The only
disadvantage in the dessert, you
loose track of time and distance
since most of the time it looks
all a like.
It was about
900km to Dakhla, the last real
town before the border,
unfortunately 40km away from the
main road on the end of a
peninsula. Though we despise
detours we had to go there to
stock up on supplies. Up to
Dakhla we saw quite a few
tourists in camper vans, but
south from here there is hardly
any traffic: Until recently you
had to go in a convoy because of
the West Sahara conflict. It was
about 400km to the border. Since
we arrived rather late at the
border post we decided to stay at
the border because we didnt
want to go through
no-mens-land since
there are supposed to be
landmines. We found a deserted
house and camped there.
Unfortunately we were discovered
the next morning by a border
control and were given an hour to
pack and cross the border
Its good
tarmac all the way to the border,
there it ends right there and
its piste for 4km to the
Mauritanian check post.
We covered a total of 2453km in
Morocco, of which were 1295km
through the Sahara.
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